Fondue is a melted cheese dish from Switzerland, served in a communal pot over a portable stove such as a candle or spirit lamp. As a shareable, warming, and indulgent dish, it’s a favorite at ski chalets and date nights alike. Although good year-round, the richness of the melted cheese fits particularly well with colder autumn and winter evenings, served with a selection of (often stale) chunks of bread and boiled potato.

In his book Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor, culinary chemist Hervé This points out that the success of the dish lies in proper cheese selection. A combination of two cheeses at a 50:50 ratio is most effective; in Switzerland, the established pair is gruyère and freiburger vacherin (a creamy, local cheese), but other popular alpine cheeses include Emmental, raclette and Comté.

The key to a successful fondue is choosing a well-ripened cheese. Hervé This explains this is due to the presence of enzymes called peptidases, which break down the proteins in the cheese and enable it to melt evenly in the warm liquid base.

This recipe is a slight twist on the classic, using two soft cheeses: Camembert and brie. In place of white wine, a traditional ingredient in fondue, blonde beer is used to loosen the cheese. This adds a malty, sweet flavor, the perfect complement to the richness of the cheese. Barcelona-based Ooni ambassador Alberto Zanrosso uses his Ooni oven to cater events across the city. Knowing the foolproof popularity of cheese fondue, he adapted the recipe to flame cook in a cast iron pan. Since this recipe doesn’t require a lamp or candle to continually heat the cheese, it’s best served right away. Hunks of bread, focaccia, salted crisps or potato chips, or roasted or boiled potatoes should be served alongside.